Mangiare

What started with a fine dining chophouse has branched out and experimented with the famed cuisine that everyone is familiar with: Italian.

Patrick Neph, the owner of one of the few premier restaurants in Northeast Wisconsin, Republic Chophouse, introduces Green Bay, WI, to a restaurant with a relaxed yet refined dining style. Mangiare displays nothing but a theme of finesse, and the clean-cut interior design makes for a welcoming aura. In their professional black and gray attire, the staff is attentive with their service: from the moment you step foot into the restaurant to the end of your meal, you're treated like royalty. The formal salutations of being addressed as sir suddenly make you realize that only a select few restaurants teach their staff the proper customer service.

But in most establishments, you will find that while the service and design of the restaurant are engaging--food as it always should--plays a key effect in a restaurant's success. The owners of a restaurant must make sure that the quality of their food comes out promptly, but fresh altogether.

Burrata

A delicacy that has been overlooked because of its rival cheese, mozzarella. Burrata consists of a silkier texture, and like mozzarella, it tastes bland when eaten by itself; cheese can be consumed alone, however--that gets boring. And maybe that's why food pairing exists: it brings together alternatives that supplement and extract the authentic flavors of the ingredient. For this dish, in particular, I found that when you combine the hard shell of the grilled crostini with the chill of burrata cheese, there's a bizarre element forming in between your chewing. A rather pleasant surprise if you ask me, but nothing that I'm not familiar with.

Braised Lamb

How can you tell if your pasta noodles are properly cooked? It's simple, mushy means it's undercooked; if it's chewy, it's overcooked. But I'm sure this isn't news to anyone: we've all experienced the harsh reality of poorly cooked pasta. It's not ideal, but it happens, and if I'm being frank, it's not the worst experience to ever happen to us when we dine in at a restaurant.

Pappardelle isn't hard to make: you only need to throw your dough into the pasta machine and flatten it out. But if you observe closely, you'll notice that pappardelle contains a thicker texture and needs to be boiled a little longer than your typical pasta noodles. And while I do respect the owners of Mangiare experimenting with it, I must say that the pappardelle was a bit undercooked. The marinara tasted like your typical tomato sauce, though I wish they'd have gone heavier with the garlic.

My one compliment for this dish, and if I can't emphasize it enough with most Italian restaurants: the sauce-to-noodle ratio was just perfect. If you're like me (which I hope you're not), then you'll understand that pasta dishes should never come drowning in the sauce--in fact--quite the opposite. The sauce needs to be cooked with your noodles in a separate pan until it looks like the remaining liquid has evaporated, but it doesn't mean your dish will taste bad: it means that behind the closed doors of the kitchen, the chef knows the fundamentals of pasta.

Chicken & Pesto Gnocchi

A flawless dish that I could eat every day. Fresh pesto is easy to come by, but making it from scratch can make you pull your hair out. This remarkable dish has the perfect blend of a savory and herby flavor profile. You receive hints of basil and creaminess from the Alfredo sauce. No elements overpower the dish, making it the perfect candidate to be selected from Mangiare's menu. The rudimentary yet complicated method of cooking chicken breast has been a lost gem in the history of culinary arts. Mangiare has, in fact, recaptured the punctual process of pan-searing a chicken breast, roasting it in the oven, and allowing it to maintain its moisture. That caramelized, brown skin color on the chicken breast is what every cook should aim for, and Mangiare has done a perfect job at executing this.

Porchetta

This was my first time trying porchetta, and I've never been one to explore anything involving roulade, which is termed as "stuffed meats." But my first impression? Not disappointing, but not entirely satisfied with it either. The rich citrus gravy compliments both the pork and marble potatoes well and provides a tangy, lemony profile. If not prepared or cooked correctly, pork can comprise a dry texture; with porchetta, most kitchens sear the outside for color and finish it in the oven. I'm proud to admit that the pork was not dry, and I must say that stuffing it with mortadella adds a unique element. Unfortunately, the downfall of this dish was that it wasn't capturing in terms of presentation or taste. But I guess you don't pay for the presentation.

Owning two restaurants can expose you in multiple ways: your first restaurant can be a great success and attract the attention of hundreds of diners. The second restaurant can be deficient and add no value to your fame or name. Opening another restaurant requires countless research, time, and money, but if you're not ready by the grand opening, it could take a toll on you as the owner and make people lose respect for you too.

I was content with my dining experience at Mangiare, and while the food may have not been up to par, with the exception of one dish, their staff is disciplined and well aware of providing customers with the best service. However, going from a successful chophouse to an Italian restaurant is a major adjustment, and the owners of Mangiare still have quite a few minor tweaks to consider.

3.5/5 stars