Slander

Gunpowder

Opening a restaurant during a pandemic isn't always the best decision, and with so many going out of business, it's discouraging for those aspiring to become restauranters. But that didn't stop Elizabeth Kangas, owner of the restaurant Slander, which sits right on E. Walnut St in downtown Green Bay.

Their brave attempt to push back against COVID-19 tells the community that nothing will stand in their way of doing what they love: cooking, creating a hospitable atmosphere, and serving an array of delicate food. But like most restaurants in the area, they are in direct competition with everyone else. And with Slander open for two months, they've become the center of attention. This upscale dining and Contemporary American cuisine restaurant will need to prove something to its diners if they strive to create a permanent status for itself in the city of Green Bay.

The trend for most restaurants seems to be a tapas-influenced dining style, where parties of friends or families share small, medium, and large plates. And that is exactly what Slander aims to do, but for a party of one, my stomach could only fit so much.

Fire Roasted Oysters

I'll admit that seeing oysters on the menu gave me flashbacks of culinary school. The painful memory of spending two to three minutes shucking one oyster reminded me why restaurants charge so much money for them. If one does not understand how to shuck an oyster properly, it ruins the experience for their diners. But I will applaud the executive chef, Zachary Sydney, and his kitchen crew for their excellent performance of shucking oysters. The meat should be able to slip away from the shell, and there should be no open resistance when you eat it.

Once you combine it with the lemon and spice medley, you're introduced to the buttery texture of the oyster itself, but then a hint of smoke sneaks its way in and clears through your nostrils. Not a disappointing dish if we consider how much of a factor the flavors play into it, but I would advise that Slander increase the number of oysters; two is not enough -- in fact, you can never have enough oysters.

Bao Buns

Great flavor, and if I may add, pickles will continue to play the predominant supplemental role in sandwiches: there's no argument. But there are multiple flaws to go along with this dish. If you've never had a bao bun before, it's simply a steamed bun filled with various fillings. If you've never had one, then you're missing out. Your mouth is introduced to the light and fluffy texture that is a glistening white steamed bun. Unfortunately, that wasn't the case this time. My first bite consisted of a hard-crusted outer layer from the bun itself. The pork belly was dry and underseasoned -- finishing the bao buns left my mouth dryer than the desert; the spicy mayo doesn't compensate for anything.

Scallops

Scallops, by default, are fancy, or at least that's what Food Network tells you. They're supposed to be treated like royalty as soon as they hit the pan. In this case, three of the four were cooked just perfectly, where the scallop immediately springs back at the light poking of a fork and melts in your mouth like butter. Ramp pesto gives off a bit of spice, while the cauliflower puree and bacon provide extra flavor to the scallops. And the perfect food presentation for any Instagrammers out there.

The only downfall with this dish: if you plan on serving an expensive garnish like pea shoots, then make sure they're firm and vibrant with color, not dull and expired.

My time at Slander was like any other restaurant, except with this one: they are still new and testing out a few things on their menu to see which items work and which ones need to be taken off and erased for good. The staff prides themselves in making sure that the service they provide to their customers will be their primary focus, and anyone leaving those doors with a smile on their face is another point on the scoreboard.

If you plan on going to this restaurant, I have some words of advice: go in showing a bit of grace, but critique like the critic you are.

3/5 Stars