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The Loyalist

  • Jun 6, 2022
  • 3 min read

Updated: Apr 8, 2023

Take a break from all of the stress in the world, and visit one of Chicago's succeeding restaurants.



Before I entered the culinary industry, I took a vow to never to underestimate French cuisine and, to this day, it still exists. French cuisine will never cease to disappoint the human tongue, and if I'm being frank, it will continue to stand as the mother of all cuisines. Most restaurants understand the basic concept behind cooking French cuisine, while others continue to struggle.


Chefs allocate their techniques to bring out a different form of consuming French cuisine. Some follow the strict bylaws to eat with your utensils, while others have concluded that dining with the two utensils attached to your body is appropriate. But what the chef brings to the table is subjective to their customers. My dining experience with The Loyalist was a combination of a bistro meets upscale, an experience where the restaurant allows their guests to dress as they please but are still served the most prominent menu items.


Chicago plays host to restaurants that can either leave you with a full, satisfied stomach or one that is discontent and feeling bad the morning after.


Executive chef John B. Shields and head chef of The Loyalist, Pierce Buckman, introduce their version of farm-to-table dining. With their succulent flavors, organic ingredients, and locally sourced protein, it's no wonder that one would need to make a reservation one month in advance to experience the pleasantries that this restaurant offers.


But if you find yourself dining at The Loyalist, you'll see another restaurant connected just upstairs--where the customers dress in suits and skirts, and food comes out on white, gleaming plates with a decoration that's easy on the eyes. Smyth, which is The Loyalist's sister restaurant, is a 2 Michelin Star restaurant that requires reservation months, maybe years in advance. Michelin-star restaurants are a mystery that needs solving, but I'll approach that mystery when the time comes.


Moules A La Bourguignonne

Mussels will continue to play a primary role in appetizers: they're there to tease your tastebuds and prepare you for your main course. But these were just a little different--in a good way. A creamy texture and herby aroma can go a long way with mussels, provided the chef doesn't scorch anything; however, that's not what snagged my attention. Chef Pierce Buckman took a risk and played around with brandade, which, if you're not familiar with it, is a salted cod and olive oil emulsification. In hindsight, most cooks don't understand the amount of sodium salted cod contains, and if they're not careful, they can oversalt the dish. But that wasn't the case this time around; there was a perfect blend of salt, herbs, and fat, not to mention a crunch from the charred baguette.


My advice to you is if you plan on going to The Loyalist, don't skip out on the mussels. You'll thank me later.


The Loyalist Original Cheeseburger

A burger that deserves a chef's kiss gesture; it's rare for French restaurants to stick an item such as a cheeseburger on their menu. But we can't expect things to stay the same forever; change will come whether we like it or not, and once it does, we either have two choices: enjoy it or despise it until we come to enjoy it. With its tender patty, melted cheese, and charred onions, this burger will make you crave another after you've finished your first. If you have room for thirds, I recommend ordering another one to take home.


You can forget about the proper dining etiquette at this restaurant; once this burger comes to the table, you'll wish the server removed your fork and spoon.


But the fun doesn't stop there. Frites are no stranger on a French menu, and they add to the thrill of your main course and dipping them into the ramekins only made me more curious about what I was consuming. One ramekin contained pickle juice--the other was a mystery sauce that the restaurant and staff keep dearly to themselves.


I reminisce about culinary school whenever I step foot into a French restaurant. It takes me back to the days when I was in the kitchen cooking food for customers who took delight in enjoying the meals we crafted. The aroma, the atmosphere, and the hospitality all reminded me of how much I've taken French cuisine for granted and how I've dismissed the roots of culinary arts.


The Loyalist will do one of two things, bring back old, cherished memories or create new and illuminating ones.


4/5 stars



























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© 2021 by Bruce Kong.

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